Vicia
(4260 Forest Park Avenue, 314-553-9239)
"If you've ever been to a traditional Japanese tea ceremony and experienced the way the simple act of pouring a cup of matcha can make the hairs on the back of your neck stand at attention, then you have an idea of what it's like to dine at Vicia. This is not a traditional meat and potatoes spot something that should be clear by their description as "veggie-centric." Midwestern-sized portions are not the norm, entrees are not composed and traditional coursing is out the window. Instead, you choose from a selection of offerings and assemble your own tasting. On any given night, there will be five main dishes, only two of which use meat as the centerpiece. The rest are indeed veggie-centric, using meat as an accent, if at all. That doesn't mean you'll leave hungry. Beets, glazed in beef fat and charred over wood, retain their earthy flavor, though the fat and flame give it a richer, heartier dimension. A side of silken yogurt and tahini dipping sauce is so delightful (it somehow tastes like understated buttercream) you run the risk of dousing the beet in it."
- Cheryl Baehr
Find out more
here.
Photo credit:
Mabel Suen