(7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton; 314-862-6603)

The wait at dinner can stretch to an hour, sometimes two — but it’s worth it. And even when Pastaria is at its busiest, the space is so big that it never feels full. In the kitchen cooks plate pastas and twirl pizza dough and slide pizzas into and out the brick oven with admirable efficiency. This is a Gerard Craft joint, so you know anything you order will be top-notch.

Photo by Jennifer Silverberg