20 J DEVOTI

J. Devoti Trattoria

(5100 Daggett Ave., 314-773-5553)

Determined to reclaim what it means to be an Italian restaurant in St. Louis, chef Anthony Devoti decided to close his former restaurant Five in March only to reopen in the same location a month later as the explicitly Italian-influenced J. Devoti Trattoria. Devoti did not dramatically change the menu for the rebrand, nor did he need to: The food here always dazzles. – Cheryl Baehr

Photo by Mabel Suen