Yes, the “Oh My God” roll at Tani Sushi Bistro is lit afire tableside. It seems like a spectacle, and it is. Shrimp tempura, crab, chilled shrimp and avocado are rolled into rice, toped with a mix of spicy and eel sauces, and set ablaze, lighting the otherwise dim space and coaxing the roll’s name out of unsuspecting patrons. Don’t let the gimmick fool you, though. The real show at this Clayton restaurant is the food, which includes fresh, impeccably prepared nigiri and rolls that need no special effects. The setting for such excellent offerings is a sleek, modern space with a lounge vibe. Feast on melt-in-your-mouth tuna belly, luscious eel or the “Geisha House” roll and you’ll be too distracted to realize that flames are shooting from your neighbor’s plate. RFT photo.